Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides put new asphalt driveways at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) and $7 to $15 (Angi). HomeGuide lists a 400-square-foot driveway at $2,000 to $4,800. Bay Area labor, tear-out, clay base repair and any right-of-way work move the number, so we give you a written price after we see the site.

HomeGuide lists resurfacing of older surfaces at $3 to $7 per square foot and notes that an overlay on a sound surface usually saves 20 to 30 percent compared with full replacement. Resurfacing only works when the base underneath is still solid, which is what we check first.

Yes, if the old surface is cleaned, repaired and coated with a tack coat before the new layer goes down. The bond is only as good as the pavement underneath, though: cracks from a failed base or from ground movement tend to show through an overlay. That is why we patch failed areas first or recommend replacement when the base is gone.

Work that stays on your property usually needs no encroachment permit. Work past the property line, such as the apron, curb, gutter or sidewalk, needs an encroachment permit from Union City Public Works, with a fee, inspection time and a performance bond. We tell you at the estimate whether your job reaches that line.

It is the tracked or wheeled machine that receives hot-mix asphalt from a dump truck, spreads it at an even width and thickness, and partly compacts it with a heated screed. Rollers follow to finish compaction. On small or tight residential jobs some of the spreading is done by hand.

Late spring through early fall. Union City gets almost all of its rain from November through March, and asphalt compacts best on warm, dry ground. Small repairs and crack sealing can be done in dry spells during winter.

HomeGuide puts the typical life of an asphalt driveway at 15 to 30 years. Where a driveway lands in that range depends mostly on the base, drainage and how regularly it is sealed and crack-filled.

Both work. Asphalt usually costs less up front and flexes a little as clay moves, but it needs sealing every few years. Concrete costs more and lasts longer, but cracks from soil movement are harder to hide. Budget, slope and how long you plan to stay decide it.

On your property, yes. If widening also means a wider curb cut or new apron, that work is in the public right-of-way and needs an encroachment permit from Union City Public Works. We explain the process at the estimate.

Usually after a few days for cars, longer in hot weather and longer still for trucks and trailers. We give you timing for your job when the paving is done.

Most early cracking comes from soft subgrade left in place, a thin or poorly compacted base, or water collecting at an edge. Those are the parts of the job we spend the most time on.

HomeAdvisor suggests planning to repave every 15 to 20 years. Regular sealcoating, crack sealing and quick pothole repair stretch that; ignoring drainage problems shortens it.

An overlay works when the base is sound and the damage is on the surface. Where alligator cracking and potholes cover large areas, the base has failed and an overlay will crack again quickly. We mark which areas need which.

For properties that cannot close during business hours, we discuss scheduling at the estimate. Local noise rules and permit conditions can limit hours, and some cities restrict work in the right-of-way to weekdays.

Yes. Private streets and multifamily lots are paved and maintained the same way as commercial lots, and we can phase work around residents.

Usually about 1.5 to 2 inches. Edges are milled where the new surface meets a garage, walk, gutter or drain so the height stays right.

Sometimes, but each overlay adds height and the base keeps aging underneath. After one or two overlays, replacement is usually the better long-term choice.

No. Sealcoating is a thin liquid coat that protects the surface. Resurfacing adds a new structural layer of hot-mix asphalt.

An overlay over a failed base cracks again quickly, so you would pay twice. We recommend it only where the pavement underneath can carry it.

HomeGuide gives 12 to 72 hours depending on the sealer, temperature and humidity. Walking is usually fine after a few hours. We tell you the timing for your job.

No. New asphalt needs time to cure first, usually several months. Sealing too early can trap oils that need to work out of the new surface.

It darkens them, but it does not fill or fix them. Cracks are filled before sealing so water stays out.

It costs far less than resurfacing and slows the oxidation and water damage that shorten asphalt life. It is most worthwhile on pavement that is still structurally sound.

Fresh sealer can be slick when wet. Sand additives improve traction, which is why they are common on lots and sloped driveways.

Cold patch pushed into a wet hole does not bond or compact well, and the soft base underneath is still there. A saw-cut repair that removes the damaged base and rebuilds it lasts much longer.

They can be sealed to keep water out, but the ground movement continues, so they will reopen over time. Regular crack sealing is the realistic plan.

When damage is limited to separate areas and the rest of the pavement is sound. When failures cover much of the surface, replacement usually costs less over time.

Yes, on private property. Trench patches that have settled are cut out, the base recompacted and new asphalt placed.

When lines fade enough that drivers ignore them, often every few years on busy lots. Lots also need restriping after every sealcoat or overlay.

Under the 2010 ADA Standards it depends on total spaces: one for 1 to 25, two for 26 to 50, three for 51 to 75, four for 76 to 100, and so on, with at least one van space. We count your lot at the estimate.

Yes. A new layout costs more than a restripe because the lot has to be measured and marked from scratch, but it is the time to fix traffic flow and stall sizes.

Yes, including numbered stalls, guest parking and fire lanes.